Georges Bénitah was something of an Indiana Jones of whisky from France. Born in Algeria in the 1920s, Georges began his career as a whisky merchant selling Scotch and classic bourbon to American troops stationed in Morocco. When political unrest in North Africa forced him to leave the region, he settled in Paris where he rebuilt his career from scratch.
Now, whisky wasn't exactly a big deal in France back then, but that was what Georges knew best. He took a leap of faith and opened the first La Maison du Whisky (House of Whisky or LMDW) in Paris in the 1950s, despite the relative obscurity of Scotch in France at the time. It was a bit of a gamble, but he had a hunch that whisky would catch on eventually. This hunch led him on countless trips to Scotland, where he made friends with distillers and basically became a whisky expert.
Georges’ visionary spirit soon became evident. LMDW brought the first single malt to France, a bottle of Glenfiddich, before the single malt revolution came. LMDW also became the first to import the now-legendary 1960s’ Islay malt to France, a precursor to the cask strength single malt now cherished by connoisseurs worldwide.
One of the LMDWbars in Paris.
While LMDW has retained its name as a tribute to its heritage, it has expanded its horizons to embrace the vibrant world of spirits. Today, it also offers a whole range including rums, bourbons, and Cognacs to enthusiasts around the world. In 2006, LMDW expanded to Asia, establishing its presence in Singapore, and has become an integral part of the fine spirits scene in Asia.
LMDW Singapore's bar at Robertson Quay.
Last week, I had the chance to celebrate the Maison’s 18th anniversary in Singapore with these folks at their Singapore bar. LMDW has continued its tradition of releasing a couple of limited edition bottlings exclusively bottled for LMDW to celebrate its birthday and to showcase LMDW’s ability to source great spirits.
We tasted:
- Neisson Rhum Vieux, Straight From The Barrel No. #264, LMDW APAC 18 th Anniversary, 58.2% ABV
- 24 YO Macallan Single Malt, Gordon & MacPhail Speymalt Series, Cask #21603904, LMDW APAC 18thAnniversary, 54.1% ABV
- Blanton's Single Barrel Bourbon #30 LMDW APAC 18th Anniversary, 62.7% ABV
- Barbados 16 YO 2006, Single Cask F06FV06, LMDW APAC18 th Anniversary 60.6% ABV
Here’s what we think!
Neisson Rhum Vieux, Straight From The Barrel No. #264, LMDW APAC 18 th Anniversary,58.2% ABV -Review
Neisson is located near Saint-Pierre in Martinique, at the foot of Mount Pelee, a volcano whose last great eruption in 1902 almost wiped out the entire island. Today, the volcano provides a unique terroir to the sugar cane grown on its volcanic clay soil.
Founded in 1932, Neisson Distillery is a craft rhum distillery that enjoys an outsized reputation for its quality rhums. It is run by its 3rd-generation owner and master distiller, Grégory Vernant, with whom I had a fantastic discussion about making growing cane, making rhums and the terroir of his beautiful island (Talking Rhums, Terroir and Cultural Diversity in Martinique with Neisson Rhum's Grégory Vernant).
This is a cask strength rhum vieux (aged rhum aged at least 3 years) from Neisson’s main warehouse on rack 3 where the average humidity is 77% and the average temperature 27.7°C.
Tasting Notes
Nose: Fresh and inviting, brimming with honeyed sweetness and rich molasses. A delicate touch of liquorice and mint, along with this fresh essence of sugarcane and subtle sweet grassiness. As the bouquet unfolds, hints of singed orange peel emerge with a touch of citrusy zest.
Palate: A remarkably clean, expansive and perfumed on the palate. Vibrant interplay of esters and mint awakens the senses along with a basic sweetness reminiscent of lychees simmering in a light dessert soup, rock sugar and a lingering honeyed sweetness. It’s a little bit grassy, a little bit vegetal, complimented by a medley of tangerine and light mangosteens that dance atop the foundational notes.
Finish: Very long and satisfying, leaving a lingering trail of mint and liquorice once again. A delightful warmth emerges along with cinnamon powder and other indistinct baking spices.
My Thoughts:
This Neisson Rhum Vieux is brimming with flavour. It's undeniably honeyed, estery and perfumed character, with a bit more pronounced juiciness and floral notes that add to its personality.
The honeyed molasses and aged notes appear slightly more prominent than usual, though the overall essence remains fresh, vibrant, and undeniably grassy that is signature to Neisson. Another very solid and layered offering from Neisson.
Macallan Single Malt, Gordon & MacPhail Speymalt Series, Cask #21603904, LMDW APAC 18thAnniversary, 54.1% ABV - Review
Believe it or not, some of the oldest stocks of The Macallan in the world are not owned by the distillery itself, but by the independent bottler Gordon & MacPhail (G&M) which has been around for so long they’ve become an archivist of the Scotch industry.
The Speymalt series from G&M is closely associated with their independent bottling of whiskies from the Macallan Distillery. To be clear, in the early days, the Speymalt name was used for various single malts from producers of the Speyside region of Scotland. However, over the years as G&M developed a closer relationship with The Macallan while distiller’s reputation began to transcend the humble region of Speyside in the decades to come.
The partnership became broader and more significant and G&M eventually dedicated the Speymalt name exclusively to their independent bottlings of whiskies from The Macallan.
Unlike many original distillery bottlings of Macallan which do not provide the spirit’s vintage years, the Speymalt series always carries the vintage of distillation and year of bottling – little details that matter to connoisseurs. And while The Macallan’s original bottlings have to fall within the ballpark of a “classic Macallan flavour profile”, G&M’s Speymalt-Macallan series are not subject to the exact same wood policy – there is more room for creativity afforded to G&M to mature their Macallan whisky in casks of their choosing.
This bottle of 24 year old Speymalt-Macallan has been was filled in a First-Fill Sherry Cask #21603904 on 5 August 1998 and bottled on 14 April 2023.
Tasting Notes
Nose: That Macallan DNA is unmistakable and yet more prominent here – rich antique wood and a generous dollop of honey lead the way. Tons of sweet scents: ripe apples and bananas, a whisper of vanilla cream, and a hint of magic marker, along with this pure and delicate sweetness that weaves through it all, like wisps of candy floss. This isn't your heavy, oak-dominated Macallan, but a brighter, more vibrant expression. Murmuring in the background are some dried fruits and cocoa nibs.
Palate: Very honeyed and refined take on the classic Macallan profile. Honeyed sweetness carries through with a mild sweetness of berries – I’d say fresh berries rather than dried fruits –intertwined with the warm embrace of wood lacquer, rich butter fruit cake, plus a gentle kick of spice emerging, followed by a wave of orange peel. Touch of Dr. Pepper sweetness.
Finish: Aromatic and honey. It lingers for quite a bit along with a gentle but drawn out mintiness. A subtle warmth glows in the back of the throat, along with an aftertaste of dried fruits and toffee.
My Thoughts:
This is a Macallan to remember. The influence of the Sherry is undeniable, yet it never overwhelms. Instead, it lends a delightful freshness and vibrancy to the whisky rarely seen in modern Macallan expressions.
There's a distinct personality here, a departure from the typical oak-forward, chocolate-heavy Macallan. This bottling leans closer to a traditional Speyside style, with its bright fruitiness and delicate sweetness. A remarkable dram that might make you a little bit nostalgic for the good old days.
Blanton's Single Barrel Bourbon #30 LMDW APAC18th Anniversary,62.7% ABV– Review
Moving across the pond to Kentucky, we have Blanton’s Bourbon that is a cult favourite amongst bourbon lovers.
Blanton’s is the brand that pioneered single barrel American bourbon in the 1984. It touts Warehouse H as its secret sauce. What’s special about this building is the thin metal walls. External temperature changes- Kentucky’s mercurial weather and four seasons - are immediately felt inside. Because of the high fluctuation in temperature, bourbon aged in Warehouse H ages faster and absorbs more complex notes from the wood. This led Albert B. Blanton, the distillery’s respected former president to grab his favourite batches of bourbon from Warehouse H. And yes, this is how the Blanton’s name was later inspired.
There’s also an interesting story about how Blanton’s was formulated for the Japanese market and how the Japanese economic miracle was responsible for saving the bourbon industry – that’s a story covered by our writer John Go .
This bottle of Blanton’s comes in a special label custom-designed for La Maison du Whisky Singapore.
Tasting Notes
Nose: Quite nuanced for a high-proof bourbon, with a subtle nuttiness reminiscent of toasted pecans. Sweet corn mingles with caramel, a generous amount of vanilla, and a hint of dried apricot.
Palate: It’s got a balanced and robust profile that unfolds elegantly. Rich caramel is prominent, complemented by notes of bright honey and brown sugar. Rye-driven warmth on the back is balanced by a touch of Japanese sour plums and citrus zest. There are hints of rancio, leather, and a light chestnut aroma and even a light touch of an oxidated not from soy sauce.
Finish: Very long, with lingering leather notes and a whisper of oak spice. Cumin, anise, and coriander seeds emerge, along with a warming cinnamon spice. The lasting rye heat remains well-integrated, fading into a subtle dark chocolate bitterness.
My Thoughts:
I didn’t expect that this Blanton’s would be the most memorable spirit I've sampled at LMDW today. It possesses all the classic Blanton's characteristics—sweet corn, vanilla, and caramel—but also showcases a ton of nuance on the palate and a brightness uncommon in high-rye bourbons. The heat is lovely and well-integrated, giving us complexity and intensity of flavours without overwhelming the palate. When it comes to bourbons, cask selection is king. This is a great pick by LMDW.
Transcontinental Rum Line - Barbados 16 Years Old 2006, Single Cask F06FV06, LMDW APAC 18thAnniversary60.6% ABV - Review
The Transcontinental Rum Line (or TCRL) brand – which has a really iconic series of labels with nautical imagery in a vintage aesthetic – was launched by LMDW to offer a selection of good quality rums at a decent price point. They are sourced from various Caribbean, South American and other regions’ distilleries, matured in their countries of origin before they are shipped over to Europe.
The offering we have before us comes in another attractive label that reminds us of the art deco period. This is sourced from Barbados, distilled in 2006 and aged for 14 years under the Caribbean sun before it was matured further in for 2 more years in Europe before being bottled in 2023.
Nothing is said about the distillery whence it comes from, though from the country of origin and the cask code – F06FV06 – you could make an educated guess: what famous rum distillery from Barbados might begin with an “F”?
Let’s take a sip of this!
Tasting Notes
Nose: The familiar Foursquare character greets me, yet it's a touch lighter than usual, showcasing bright fruits alongside dates and a gentle earthiness. A subtle tobacco note mingles with hints of mint and liquorice, revealing a bit of that classic rancio character.
It's refreshingly straightforward, lacking the thick herbaceous or medicinal qualities often intertwined with heavy caramel in many Foursquare expressions.
Palate: On the palate, this rum is medium-bodied and continues its theme of approachability. Caramel and maple syrup sweetness intertwine with hints of Hacks candy, sarsaparilla, and root beer, all underpinned by rich brown sugar. A fleeting touch of soy sauce adds some umami, while a light touch of Chinese herbal jelly brings a subtle herbaceous note before quickly fading.
Finish: Long and warming, leaving behind light dark chocolate nuances and a whisper of Pei Pa Koa cough syrup. A gentle tannic grip and dry oak emerge on the back of the palate, alongside a lingering ginger spice that adds a final touch of warmth.
My Thoughts:
Very approachable and easy to enjoy. While this Foursquare - if I’m allowed to call it a Foursquare - possesses some of the distillery’s DNA, it's a much lighter, brighter and honeyed interpretation. It doesn’t have that thick molasses and intense herbaceous notes found in many Foursquare bottlings, which does make this a welcoming people-pleaser dram for all.
This makes a great everyday sipper. It doesn’t have the intimidation factor of “serious rum” and offering a gentle introduction to the world of rum for those who are a little newer to the spirit or to specific distilleries.
Final Thoughts
Four spirits, four distinct categories, and four very impressive picks by LMDW. It was a delightful challenge to pick a favourite because all of them were hits. The Neisson rhum vieux was undeniably characteristic, brimming with vibrant grassinessthat seems to transport you straight to Martinique. The Barbados (Foursquare) rum, was enjoyable and approachable and a perfect entry point into the world of fine rum for a beginner.
Flavour-wise, however, the Blanton's stood out for me, exceeding my expectations with its layered complexity. While it retained the classic Blanton's DNA, it showcased thisremarkable depth, nuance and brightness not oftenfound in high-rye bourbons.
Of course, it's also such a treat to have a taste of a 24-year-old Speymalt Macallanfrom Gordon & MacPhail. It has such a beautiful representation of the distillery's classic style, balancing rich sherry influence with a vibrant fruitiness and delicate sweetness that you honestly can'tfind in modern Macallans today.These pre-noughties expressions are also becoming increasingly scarce.
If you're looking to have a taste ofLMDW's 18th Anniversaryspirits for yourself, head over to La Maison du Whisky's Robertson Quaybar in Singapore. Most of them are available by the pour!
@CharsiuCharlie
